Water pipe heater free#

This is especially true when working with 'black' pipe, since I want some corrosion protection in these joints. When working with fuel gas pipes of any kind, I always use a paste dope labeled for this use. I don't really have any particular reason for this, it's just the way I was taught. If I'm working with water pipe of any material larger than ~1', I'll always use paste dope. The paste dope will never harden or flake off, so I know the threads will be protected for a long time. The paste dope will give me the lube I need to get the pipes properly joined, while at the same time providing corrosion protection. Steel, Reactive Metalsīecause I don't want the threads to rust or react negatively, in this situation I'll use paste dope.

Water pipe heater free#

I'm just looking to lubricate the joint, so I can tighten it to create a leak free joint. In this situation I'll reach for PTFE tape, since it's not likely I'll require long term corrosion protection. Water Plastic, Soft Metals, Unreactive Metals The following are my personal guidelines. Which form of dope you choose is often based on who you learned from, personal preference, what's on hand, what type of pipe you're working with, etc. May be listed as MNPSF or FNPSF, for male and female threads respectively. NPSF like NPTF creates a mechanical seal due to the deformation of the threads, however, unlike NPTF NPSF threads are not tapered. May be listed as MNPS or FNPS, for male and female threads respectively. A thread seal agent is required, but should be selected differently due to the lack of taper. This type of thread is similar to NPT, except that the thread does not have a taper. May be listed as MNPTF or FNPTF, for male and female threads respectively. Since the seal is created by the threads themselves, a thread seal agent is not required (though may be used as a lubricant).

NPTF threads are designed so that when the threads are mated, they actually deform to create a mechanical seal. May be listed as MNPT or FNPT, for male and female threads respectively. However, this type of thread is tapered at a rate of 1/16 (3/4'/foot), which often allows a seal to be made without a sealing agent. Because of this, a thread seal agent may be required. This type of thread when mated, may contain slight gaps between the major and minor diameter of the threads. Thread Standards National Pipe Thread (NPT) The type of thread is determined by the tap or die used to create the threads, and should be labeled on the pipe or fitting.

I've contacted FrostKin, but I have not heard back yet.Whether dope is required at all, is dependent on the type of threads. Would this be OK since the plug itself would be easily accessible? Or should hard wiring be done? If so, any recommendations on tips/tricks, or products? I have no attachment to using the FrostKing heat cable kits, so other suggestions are welcome. Before reading this, my thought had been to run a longer heat tape (approximately 30 feet), plugging into the same GFCI outlet the heat tape uses now. I was looking at the FrostKing Heat Cable Kits, and their FAQ states not to do it behind drywall without hardwiring. Since it's the pipe is easily accessible now, I'd like to do the entire run, just to be safe. My theory is the previous owner added the short amount of heat tape as that is what could be reached without tearing up the ceiling. While we've had no problems with it freezing (knock on wood), the pipe extends for a while at the same distance from the exterior wall, with the same amount of insulation. In removing the ceiling tiles in renovating our basement, it came to my attention that the first 5 feet or so on water supply line has heat tape on it.